A big, tough, young vintage Port that's closed and difficult to taste. Emits lovely aromas of chocolate, berry and plum, and is full-bodied with lots of sweet, fruit flavors and masses of velvety tannins. Long, sweet finish. Best after 2010. 11,000 cases made. Apr 30, 1997

The 1994 Graham's Vintage Port, which incidentally carries quite noticeable sediment, as there is no fining or filtration, is beginning to show a little bricking on the rim. The bouquet is very harmonious and welcoming, featuring aromas of mulberry, roasted chestnut, pressed rose petals, autumn leaves and a hint of liquorice. The nose is not powerful; rather, it displays a brooding intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin and lightly spiced with clove, pain d'épices and again, a scintilla of liquorice. Though it obviously has another 20 or 30 years in the tank, this mellow Graham's is drinking beautifully now. Tasted at the Symington Tawny Port tasting at the Tower of London. Neal Martin